Monday 3rd Augt 1829
I embarked at 8 O'clock A.M. on board the "Morley" convict ship for New South Wales, now lying at Sheerness The party on board consisted beside myself of the Captain of the Guard (Capt. Storey) an ensign Mr Tranter, the Surgeon (Mr Lewis) Mrs Storey – 29 Soldiers of different regiments – 200 convicts, 34 seamen, the Captains mate and inferior officers – together with four or five of the soldiers wives amounting on the whole to about 270 souls – The weather throughout the day stormy and tempestuous – with heavy rain at intervals – wind W.S.W. – my first day on board ship has certainly been a most unpropitious one. The variety of noises by which I was kept awake at night and disturbed early in the morning – the disagreable smells the clanking chains of the convicts – with other sights and sounds far from agreable tend to impress me with an idea of the inconveniences to which they who travel by sea must be subject. But these are trifling considerations unworthy a moments attention from one who has an important object in view.

[4 AUG 1829]
Tuesday 4th Augt
Weather still very squally but with less rain. Wind very high from the W. and though only in the river the way the vessel rocks in such a manner as to produce a particularly unpleasant sensation in the stomach of a landsman —

"Whiting fishing off Margate, Sunrise" (detail)
JMW Turner, 1822

[13 AUG 1829]
Thursday 13th
At 8 A.M. abreast of the Isle of Wight wind W.S.W. making way rapidly – towards night blew very fresh

[16 AUG 1829]
Sunday 16th
Weather fine & warm – wind S.E. Latitude at noon 47° 22' N nothing can possibly be more monotonous than the scene around us not a solitary bird nor a fish nor any living thing to be seen. I think it must require a well regulated mind to sustain its equanimity during a long voyage by sea. Thrown entirely upon its own resources it must require considerable exertion to resist the encroachments of ennui. I am glad to perceive that some little deference is paid to this day. The morning service is read to the prisoners by the Doctor and to the guard by their officers & all the seamen make a point of appearing in their best & cleanest clothing

[17 AUG 1829]
Monday 17th
Wind ....................... fresh from S.E. fine day but cold. Latitude at noon 45° 53' N. Barometer 302/10 not a sail in sight nor anything to break the uniformity of the "dark blue" horizon.

[19 AUG 1829]
Wednesday 19th
Thick mists with occasional storms of rain – Wind from W.N.W. Lat. at noon 42° 22' N. Long 11° 10' W. Bar. 30°1½/10 – Therm. 72° rising rapidly though the atmosphere is yet not perceptibly warmer – Brig in sight to the westward – The remark which (I believe) is usually made, of the apparent proximity of the horizon at sea, is certainly correct: a distance of 5 or 6 miles appears to form the boundary: and nothing can possibly be more monotonous. On a fine day the sea certainly presents a variety of colours & has altogether a beautiful appearance:– but it is an object which one soon tires of contemplating –

[20 AUG 1829]
Thursday 20
Weather warm & beautiful with a fine wind from W.N.W. which enables us to make very rapid progress. Lat. at noon 40° 75' N. Long 12° 45' W. Bar. 30 2/10 Therm. 72°. At eleven A.M. a brig in sight to the S. which passed at a distance bearing on as for N. at 3 P.M. an American brig bore down within about ½ a mile of us evidently with the intention of speaking: but our vessel continued her course. The American tacked and sailed away to the N.E. – another one in sight to the N.W. – observed a number of Grampuses[?] sporting on the surface of the water about ½ a mile astern – The first appearance of a fish once we left the channel

[21 AUG 1829]
Friday 21st
Fine clear day – light wind from the N.E. Steering our course due SW before the wind the ship rolling heavily – Lat. 38° 10' N. Long 13° 25' W. Therm. 73° – Bar. 30° 3/10 – two brigs in sight to the westward —

[23 AUG 1829]
Sunday 23rd
Weather very fine & warm – wind light from N.E. Lat. at noon 34° 15' 17" N. Long 15° 46' W. Therm. 74 Bar 30 2½/10 – A solitary gull and a few stormy petrels seen – the former indicating an approach to land – expected that Madeira will be visible tomorrow morning. Some of the sailors observed a flying fish – the first we have yet heard of –

[24 AUG 1829]
Monday 24th
At 9 O'clock A.M. the island of Porto Santo in view bearing S.S.E.¼ E. it presents the appearance of three lofty peaks – two of them connected by a long neck of land & one quite distinct & separate from the other two – Lorenzo Point on the island of Madeira bearing S. & by W. & Tristram Point S.W. At noon West point of Madeira S.W. & by S Lorenzo Point & by E. ¼ E. Porto Santo no longer visible – weather fine & warm – a fine breeze from S.E. making about 8 knots an hour. Lat. 33° 13' 12" N. Long 17° 8' W. Therm. 73° Bar. 30°2/10 – The view of Madeira is exceedingly fine & romantic – the bold & rugged outline of it's lofty "cloud capp’d" peaks – some of them apparently clothed with wood – it’s deep ravines and broken cliffs – it's precipitous & richly varied sides studded with here & there a neat little white cottage — The whole of that rich azure or almost purple hue, which we see in some of Claud's pictures but to which English scenery is a stranger – this combined with the brilliant and varied colours of the sea, every wave crowned with foam, forms certainly the most beautiful scene I ever beheld —

[26 AUG 1829]
Wednesday 26th
Fine warm clear weather with a fresh breeze from E.S.E. Lat. at noon 28° 45' 19" N. Long 20° 38' W. Therm. 74° Bar. 30 2/10 – observed a number of flying fish about the ship – they are small and appear of a dusky grey colour on the back and wings – at a short distance they might be mistaken for birds – did you not see them rise out of the sea and disappear in it again –

[27 AUG 1829]
Thursday 27th
Weather fine & warm with light wind from N.E. – Lat. at noon 26° 16' 17" N. Long 21° 45' W. Therm. 75° – Bar. 30 1½/10 – passed a ship to the eastward steering the same course

[28 AUG 1829]
Friday 28th
Fine clear weather – very hot – light wind from N.E. Lat. at noon 24° 8' 0" N. Long 23° 8' 0" W. Therm. 76° – Bar. 30 1½/10 – the ship observed yesterday again in sight to the N.E. and continued so all day – flying fish in abundance.

[29 AUG 1829]
Saturday 29th
Weather very fine, but oppressively hot – wind light from N.E. Lat. at noon 22° 5' 37" N. Long 24° 5' W. Therm. 80° – Bar. 30 2/10 – some amusement was afforded this morning in catching a fish the first we have seen near the vessel with the exception of flying fish – Was said to be a "Kingfish". was about a yard long with a forked tail & very sharp head, armed with a visible row of small but not very sharp teeth when taken out of the water it was finely striped with purple but the brilliance of its colours soon faded & when dead it was of a dusky lead colour: the flesh was flaky like that of the cod but firmer & sweeter & when broiled formed a very nice dish – the weight of it was about 20 lbs —

[31 AUG 1829]
Monday 31st
Weather fine and exceptionally hot – wind light from the N.E. and N. – Lat. at noon 19° 12' 40" N. Long 25° 15' W. Therm. 81° Bar. 30 2/10 –

[1 SEP 1829]
Tuesday 1st September
Weather fine and hot. light wind from N.E. Lat 17° 11' 28" N. Long 25° 30' W. Thermometer 81° Bar. 30 1/10 – we are now in the Latitude of the Cape DeVerd Islands and not more than 3 leagues distant but the atmosphere is so thick and hazy on the horizon, that not the least appearance of land is to be seen – – two flying fish were found this morning in the main chains – they were very small in shape much like the mullet. – the colour a bright variegated blue – the wings are beautifully transparent and so delicate that the slightest touch will tear them. I endeavoured to preserve them on paper and pressing them between the leaves of a book. — At 5 O'clock P.M. the mist began to clear off and St Antonio became dimly visible to the eastwards.

[2 SEP 1829]
Wednesday 2nd
Weather very fine & towards noon a fine fresh breeze from E.S.E. – after a night of perfect calm. Lat. at noon 15° 18' 7" N. Long 25° 20' W. Bar. 30 1/10 Therm. 82° St Antonio is quite out of sight, but a swallow flying about the ship for a length of time during the morning indicates that we are no great distance from land –

[3 SEP 1829]
Thursday 3rd
Fine weather with a strong breeze from E.N.E. & considerable swell – Lat. at noon 13° 5' 56" N.— Long 24° 15' W. Therm. 82° Bar. 30 – flying fish in abundance – these poor creatures lead a miserable for the dolphins & bonitas pursue them almost incessantly in the water, and when they betake themselves to the air in the hope of safety, the Tropic bird is generally in waiting to assail them there —

[4 SEP 1829]
Friday Sept 4th
Morning fine with light wind from E.N.E. but soon after noon a heavy squall came on, with thunder and tremendous rain – which lasted untill about 3 P.M. when it fell calm. A squall at sea was a novelty to me:– the noise & confusion that prevail on such occasions would astonish any person who was not accustomed to it. The ship was put right before the wind and we scudded along under double-reefed topsails at about 9 knots an hour. – an observation was taken at noon but owing to the thickness of the horizon, its correctness may be doubted. Lat. 11° 27' 15" N. Long 22° 31' W. Bar. 29 9½/10 – Therm. 82° but it soon fell after the squall to 77°. Sail in sight to the Westward —

[5 SEP 1829]
Saturday 5th
Much rain fell during the night accompanied with a strong breeze and considerable swell. The morning was fine with fresh breeze from S.W. and heavy swell which continued all day and the effects of which I have felt severely. To any person who suffers much from sea-sickness a voyage may truly be designated the very climax of misery – the confinement & want of exercise are bad enough – to be .............. up for hours together & during so long a period in a close cabin with no option but that of endeavouring (with me the attempt is vain) to walk the deck where your feet get entangled with ropes and your hair with sails and spars & the reeling & heaving of the vessel make you stagger to & fro like a drunken man – this is bad enough – the complication of loud noises which prevent your resting night or day – the variety of abominable smells the utter impossibility of keeping on your feet even to dress & undress yourself in your cabin without leaning against the side of it – the sensation of being awake, after you have just coaxed yourself perhaps into a doze, with a jerk, when the vessel gives a sudden heave, which almost ejects you from your bed – to say nothing of your crockery, books and everything which is not nailed or tied down rattling about your ears – all these are bad enough of all conscience – but they all dwindle into absolute insignificance before that worst of evils – that demon sea-sickness. I never suffer from ennui because by providing constant employment for my mind I give it no opportunity of exerting its influence & personal disagreables & inconveniences. I am the last to think of – but while every little breeze that blows has such an effect on my bodily health I cannot , as I otherwise should enjoy the voyage a calm brings a temporary cessation of my miseries – but it last not long – Lat. at noon today 10° 19' 46" N. Long 21° 30' W. Bar. 30 Therm. 82 Sail about 3 miles to E. of us supposed to be a whaler & the same which accompanied is from the Downs.

[6 SEP 1829]
Sunday 6th Sept
Weather very fine and hot – wind very light from S.W. inclining to calm – Lat. 10° 2' 13" N. Long 20° 9' W. Bar. 30 1/10 – Therm. 82. A shoal of sperm whales was observed astern of the ship. – They were said to be sleeping on the water, and two or three of them floated very near us:– they appeared to be about 30 feet in length. To our great regret the whaling vessel which was in company with us yesterday was this morning out of sight. – had she been within hail it would have afforded us considerable sport and been a source of great profit to them. One of the mates who has served on board a whaler says that each of the fish would have been worth £200 – A sail has just been discovered to the W. but at too great a distance for us to perceive what she is or in what direction she is bound

[7 SEP 1829]
Monday 7th
Weather cloudy but free from rain and very hot. a fair breeze from N.W. Lat. at noon 8° 22' 10" N. Long 19° 25' W. Bar. 30 Therm. 84° –

[8 SEP 1829]
Tuesday 8th
Much rain has fallen during the night and the day has been rough and squally – with fresh breeze from S.W. it was too cloudy to admit of any observation being taken at noon, but the Lat. by dead reckoning is 7° 13' N. Long 18° 45' W. Bar. 29 9½/10 Therm. 79°. The vessel which became in sight on Sunday is still visible to the N. but at a considerable distance – Scarcely a day passes but some land birds are observed settling on the rigging driven in all probability from the coast of Africa. Today an elegant little creature of the dove species lighted on the main top & continued there until the driven thence by the bustle &confusion of taking in sail & during squalls we have encountered – to finish miserably in the water

[9 SEP 1829]
Wednesday 9th Septr
Weather dull & gloomy but without rain – a steady breeze from S.S.W. Lat by reckoning 6° 43' " N. Long 16° 45' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 80°

[10 SEP 1829]
Thursday 10th
Weather fine with a steady breeze from S.W. — Lat. at noon by observation 6° 0' 18" N. Long 14° 40' W. Bar. 30° – Therm. 80°

[11 SEP 1829]
Friday 11th
Weather tolerably fine and very cool & pleasant Wind S.W. fresh breeze Lat. at noon 5° 11' 8" N. Long 16° 40' W. Bar. 30° – Therm. 80° – the prevalence of south westerly winds for the last eight days is very unfavourable to us, as we do not expect to come in with the S.E. trade winds untill we get within about 2° of the line – and our progress towards it is extremely slow – We lost the north east trade in about 12° N. which is about 2° earlier than usual at this time of year – It appears from a variety of observations that on an average, The N.E. trade wind in the month of Jany is last at about 4° from the line, in Feby at 6° – and so on with a variation of about 2° untill Midsr. from which time it advances again toward the Equator and decreases in the same ratio nearly as in the former part of the year it increased –

[12 SEP 1829]
Saturday 12th
Fine weather & cool – wind still continues fresh from S.W. saw two homeward bound vessels to the westward bearing away before the wind but at too great a distance to speak to them – Lat. by obs. at noon 4° 36' 47" N. Long 18° 40' W. Bar. 30 2/10 – Therm. 80°

[13 SEP 1829]
Sunday 13th Septr
Weather fine & clear with fresh breeze from S.W. Lat. 4° 20' 56 N. Long 17° 34 – Bar. 30 ½/10 – Therm. 80°

[14 SEP 1829]
Monday 14th
Weather very fine with clear and cloudless sky and fresh cool breeze still from S.W. nothing can be more delightful than the present state of the weather. the atmosphere is pure and the breeze cooling so that although the sun is nearly vertical, the heat is by no means unpleasant whilst at a much greater distance from the line it was perfectly exhausting. Lat. at noon 3° 57' 6" N. Long 16° 37 Bar. 30° Therm. 80° –

[15 SEP 1829]
Tuesday 15th
Weather fine & pleasant wind blowing with prosaking[?] pertinacity still from S.W. so that we can make no progress anyway and have no more prospect of crossing the line than we had a fortnight ago. Lat. 3° 40' 56" Long. 17° 24' Bar 30° Therm. 78°

[16 SEP 1829]
Wednesday 16th
Weather cool & pleasant, but cloudy & with rain at intervals. Wind S.S.W. Lat. at noon 2° 49' N. Long 18° 43' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 78° – brig in sight at ½ past 10 A.M. to the N.E. steering to the Westward lost sight of her in about two hours –

[17 SEP 1829]
Thursday 17th
Fine clear weather with fresh breeze from S.E. Lat. at noon 2° N. Long 20° 6' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 78°

[18 SEP 1829]
Friday 18th
The weather continues most beautiful. The sky clear & cloudless – and though we are just under the line the atmosphere is fresh and delightful. it is impossible to imagine a more beautiful climate than we now enjoy. the day is perfectly cool and pleasant and the night neither too warm nor too cold. The wind blows fresh from E.S.E. Lat. 0.45. N. Long 25 Bar. 30 Therm. 78 –

[19 SEP 1829]
Saturday 19th
Weather fine – steady breeze from S.S.E. Lat. 0° 47' 18" S. Long 23° 34' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 77° crossed the line about 4 O'clock A.M. The ceremonies usual on such occasions were dispensed with duly performed during[?] the crossing

[20 SEP 1829]
Sunday 20th September
Fine clear weather with strong breeze from the S.E. Lat. at noon 2° 53' 17" S. Long 25° 11 W. Barom. 30° Therm. 77°—

[21 SEP 1829]
Monday 21st
Weather fine & clear – favourable & steady breeze from the S.E. Lat. at noon 5° 35' 42 S. Long 26° 35' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 78° at ½ past one P.M. exchanged colours with an English Brig, homeward bound supposed either from Rio or Buenos Ayres –

[22 SEP 1829]
Tuesday 22nd
Fine clear weather, with steady wind from S.E. Lat. at noon 8° 33' S. Long 27° 15' W. Bar. 30° – Therm. 79°

[23 SEP 1829]
Wednesday 23rd
Weather warm and rather cloudy with occasional squalls of rain – light wind from E.S.E. Towards evening a tendency to calm. Lat. at noon by observation 11° 9' 14" S. Long 27° 48' W. Bar. 30 1/10 Therm. 77°

[24 SEP 1829]
Thursday 24
Weather fine & warm – wind light & variable from S.S.E. & E.S.E. Lat. at noon by observation 13° 16' 46" S. Long 28° 45' W. Bar. 301/10 – Therm. 75°

[25 SEP 1829]
Friday 25th
Fine clear weather – light wind from E.S.E. inclining to calm. Lat. at noon 15° 13' 26" S. Long 29° 34' W. Bar. 30 1/10 – Therm. 77°.

[26 SEP 1829]
Saturday 26th
Fine weather with light wind from S. Lat at noon 16° 6" 5" S. Long. 30° 45' W. Bar. 30–2/10 Ther. 76°. brig in sight at 5 P.M. bearing to the north eastward —

[27 SEP 1829]
Sunday 27th
Fine weather and light breeze from E. & E.S.E. Lat by obs. 17° 33' 42" S. Long 31° 13' W. Bar. 30 2/10 – Therm. 75. At 6 P.M. a large schooner in sight to the S.E. bearing .............. for N.E.

[28 SEP 1829]
Monday 28
Morning fine with strong breeze from E.N.E. Lat at noon 19° 38' 41" S. Long 3° 42' W. Bar. 30 ½/10 Therm. 75°. Two Cape Pidgeons (Petrels) seen flying above the vessel They are rather larger than the common pidgeon. Spotted black & white on the back & wings, and white on the breast and under the wings.

[29 SEP 1829]
Tuesday 29th September
Weather rather cloudy and warm – light wind from N.E. Lat. at noon 21° 47' 30" S. Long 27° 43' W. Bar. 30 ½/10 Therm. 77. — During dinner today a large bat flew into the cuddy & hovered for a few minutes round the table, but succeeded in escaping before we could secure him. Two immense insects of the moth tribe also have been flying about the ship, one of which I have been fortunate enough to procure:– it is very handsomely marked and very much larger than the largest butterflies or moths we meet with in England. Various conjectures have been offered as to where they could come from – some supposing them to have been on board the vessel ever since she left England – and others imagining them to have flown from the small island of Trinidad which was passed during the night of Monday at a distance of not more than 8 0r 10 leagues:– the latter seems the probable hypothesis particularly as the moth is of a size & species never seen (I believe) in England –

[1 OCT 1829]
Thursday 1st October
Rain fell very heavily and in large quantity during the night with very little wind: towards morning the weather cleared & continuing fine with slight air from N.W. untill about 2 P.M. when a squall of rain came on which was succeeded by a dead calm. Lat. at noon by observ. 24° 19' 41" S. Long 27° 4' W. Bar. 30 2/10 – Therm. 75° — The first albatros was seen this afternoon hovering round the ship. it is a very large bird with white body and the back of the wings a dark brown or chocolate colour at a short distance it bear much resemblance to the Heron, but on closer inspection its head more nearly resembles the gull and it has not the long legs of the Heron – Several dolphins have been playing about the vessel and one of them was harpooned by the sailors when hauled on deck we had the opportunity of observing the beautiful changes of colour it undergoes in dying. They certainly surpass anything I could have imagined. The head and belly, when first taken out of the water, have a greenish gold appearance and the sides and back as bright and variegated purple, brilliantly spotted with crimson & deep blue. The fins and tail of bright cerulean blue: the dorsal fin extending entirely from the head to a few inches of the tail. this fin is erect when in the water and its brilliancy of colour is astonishing. The two pectoral fins are of the same colour & shaped something like the wings of the hawk: the tail is long & forked. The head large and round – the body gradually tapering off from thence to the tail – the mouth is very small for the size of the fish. its length from the nose to the extremity of the tail is 4 feet 8 ins – but to the insertion of the tail only 3 feet 9½ ins – it's weight 33 lbs – it is said to be of a very different species from the dolphin of poetry, this latter being of the porpoise tribe – But Byron's description of it is correct and beautiful –

"Parting day,
Dies like the dolphin whom each pang imbues
With a new colour, as it gasps away
The last still loveliest; till ’tis gone and all is gray,
Childe Harold:

[2 OCT 1829]
Friday 2nd October
The weather today has been dull and heavy, with a fair breeze from N. by E. and a heavy swell setting in from the S.W. which during the last 36 hours has caused the ship to roll most "villainously" Sailors predict that it will be followed by a strong gale from that quarter. The observed Lat today (at noon) 25° 37' 23" S. Long 26° 2' W. Bar. 30 1/10 Therm. 74° and about 2 hours after it dropped 2° and stood at 72° a very perceptible change has taken place in the atmosphere today it has been damp and even cold

[3 OCT 1829]
Saturday 3rd
The wind blew strong during the night from N & NW and has continued all day today with constant and heavy rain this being the first wet day we have had since leaving England. Bar 29 7/10 Therm 72 atmosphere damp & chilly several petrels of different kinds have been seen today; and a bird which from its appearance at some distance I conceived to be the ash coloured Puffin

[4 OCT 1829]
Sunday 4th
The wind which has been blowing hard all day yesterday increased towards night until about midnight & it became a perfect hurricane during which we were obliged for nearly four hours to run before the wind in a direction NNW the deadlights and windows of the lower stern cabins occupied by the soldiers were dashed in by the violence of the waves & the men washed out of their beds. Several sails were torn & injured and different parts of the rigging carried away; but fortunately no material damage was sustained. The Barometer during the night stood at 29 1/10 a gale of wind during the night is the greatest misery to be endured on a voyage for independently of the immense confusion of sounds the variety of noises some of which is alone sufficient to wake the dead, the motion of the vessel effectualy precludes the possibility of sleeping:– every time the vessel is struck by a sea, it is sufficient to pitch you out of your bed and it is as much as you can possibly do with all your care to prevent such a catastrophe, so that not merely are you deprived of sleep, but even rest is impossible and you rise in the morning jaded & unhinged – and more fatigued than if you had been engaged in violent exertion — During the whole night it rained tremendously & the wind blew all around the compass. Towards noon the weather cleared, wind still strong from the S.W. — sailing under close reefed topsails – sea running very heavy. Lat. by obs. 28° 58' 25" S. Long [space] W. Bar. 29½/10 Therm. 64° —

[5 OCT 1829]
Monday 5th
Weather fine and clear with strong breeze from the S.W. and considerable swell. Lat. by observ. 30° 6' 50" S. Long 21° 39' W. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 62 atmosphere fresh and very bad. A great variety of birds have been following the ship these last two or three days Cape Pidgeons – stormy Petrels and others whose names I cannot learn, particularly a large bird nearly or quite the size of a goose. its plumage entirely black and a delicate little creature the size of a dove with dunn or fawn coloured wings – blackish head and white underneath ...

[6 OCT 1829]
Tuesday 6th
Weather variable with occasional squalls of rain very strong from S.W. And very heavy sea – Lat. by obs at noon 32° 40' 5" S. Long 18° 43' W. Bar. 30 Therm. 61 air dry and very cold

[7 OCT 1829]
Wednesday 7
Weather clear and fine slight breeze from S.W. with many swells which have now subsided towards night atmosphere very cold. Lat. at noon 34° 24' 9" S. Long 15° 34' W. Bar. 30 2/10 – Therm. 56° large flights of Cape Pidgeons several giant petrels and albatrosses follow in the ship's wake these last few days —

[8 OCT 1829]
Thursday 8th October
Weather clear and cold with occasional squalls of sleet and hail light wind from S.W. and afternoon shifted to S.E. Lat. by obs. 35° 55' 29" S. Long 11° 54' W. Bar. 30 2/10 Therm. 53° At six O'clock P.M. the island of Tristan da Cunha bearing due south about 45 miles, Cape Pidgeons, Albatrosses Giant Petrels, Stormy petrels, ash coloured puffins and other birds in great numbers accompanying the ship – a large whale was observed at some distance to the S.W.

[9 OCT 1829]
Friday 9th
Weather cold & squally in the forenoon but toward the afternoon fine, dry & very cold – wind: wind variable chiefly from S.S.E. Lat. at noon 35° 45' 29" S. Long 11° 10' W. Bar. 30 3/10 Therm. 54° —

[10 OCT 1829]
Saturday 10th
Fine clear cold weather with slight breeze from S.E. at 6 A.M. the island of Tristan da Cunha in sight bearing S.W. Lat. at noon by obs. 37° 1' 38" S. Long 11° 26' W. Bar. 30 6/10 Therm. 55° – at 1½ hours P.M. the extreme points of Tristan da Cunha bore N.W.by N. and N.W. by W. ½ W. The adjoining islands "Inaccessible" W by N and "Nightingale Island" W. by S. ½ N. – at 4 P.M. Tristan da Cunha N. "Inaccessible" W.S.W. and Nightingale W. ¼ N. These islands very lofty & have a bold, romantic appearance, particularly "Inaccessible Island" which as its name imports is ringed and surrounded by huge masses of detached rock. its outline is broken into a variety of towering peaks & undulating slopes and its sides torn with chasms by the force of the mountain torrents which in rain storms must be tremendous two small islands or rather insulated masses of rock of great size stand a little to the northern end of the main island. Nightingale Island has also a singular appearance one of its extremities rises into a peak of stupendous height & bearing the form of a cone or sugar loaf.

Tristan da Cunha was nearest to us, being distant about 9 or 10 miles. it's appearance is less romantic, & it's outline is less rugged but it is probably more fertile, as patches of thick brushwood & here & there of lovely greensward were observable. A peak in its centre is said to rise to the height of nearly 9000 feet from the level of the sea but from the whole summit of the Island being enveloped in a dense cloud which hung over the whole day, we were unable to catch a glimpse of it. A shoal of whales was observed close under the Island & birds of numerous different species abound. Seals are said to be plentiful & people are occasionally left on the island for the purpose of catching them. We hoisted our colours and fired several rounds of musketry,. in the hope that if the island were inhabited, we might hold some communication with it but our signals were not noticed in any way.

[12 OCT 1829]
Monday 12th
Weather cold with occasional squalls of sleet and strong fresh breeze from E.N.E. at noon Gough's Island in sight bearing S.E. distant 8 or 9 miles —

[13 OCT 1829]
Tuesday 13
Passed Gough's Island last evening about 8 O' clock with strong breeze from the N.E. which has continued throughout today. Weather fine and clear but very cold Lat. by obs. 40° 48' S. Long. 7° 16' W. Bar. 30 5/10 Therm. 54° Immense numbers of the ash coloured Puffin flying about the ship. The Cape Pidgeons have become less numerous

[14 OCT 1829]
Wednesday 14th October
Weather clear and fine during the morning & afternoon – towards evening thick & hazy — strong breeze from N. by E. Lat. by obs. 40° 33' 31" S. Long. 2° 57' W. Bar. 30 3/10 Therm. 52° —

[15 OCT 1829]
Thursday 15th
Early part of the day, weather thick & clouded with fresh wind from W.S.W. in the afternoon the atmosphere shifted to S. Lat. at noon (by obs.) 40° 3' 29 S. Long. 1° 28' E. Bar. 30 3/10 Therm. 50 —

[16 OCT 1829]
Friday 16th
Weather fine and clear wind light and variable from S.E. but during greater part of the day perfectly calm. Lat. at noon by obs. 39 6' 2" S. Long. 4° 28' Bar. 30 6/10 Therm. 54° – The day being so favourable we were induced to try the experiment of lowering a bottle in the water, attached to the deep-sea-line. The usual result, it is well known, is that when the bottle arrives at a certain depth the cork is forced in and the bottle comes up filled with salt water. In the present instance the result was different. The bottle selected was a common wine bottle, covered on the lip & round the edge with a thick coat of sealing wax. Over that was placed a piece of strong close canvas, which was fastened round the neck of the bottle, with tar twine and the whole well covered with another coat of sealing wax. The bottle was then made fast to the deep-sea-line about 3 feet above the lead, the neck of the bottle being upwards, and lowered into the sea, but unfortunately, the vessel just at that time was making a little way through the water, so that it would not sink perpendicularly but dragged out asterne. However when it had sunk about 45 fathoms from the surface, we hauled in the line and the bottle was found to be about one third part filled with water, the cork being perfectly secure & the wax not in the slightest degree cracked or injured.

[17 OCT 1829]
Saturday 17th October
Dull cloudy weather and cold – with strong, steady wind from N.W. Lat. (by obs.) 39° 7' 28" S. Long. 6° 52' E. – Bar. 30 4/10 Therm. 52° —

[18 OCT 1829]
Sunday 18th
Weather fine clear and cold – strong steady wind from S.W. with heavy swell Lat by obs. 39° 0' 2" S. Long. 11° 6' E. Bar. 30' 1/10 Therm. 52°

[19 OCT 1829]
Monday 19th
Weather cloudy but fine: in the early part of the day fresh breeze from S.W. Towards P.M. it veered around to N.W. a very heavy swell all day. Lat. by obs. 38° 45' S. Long. 15° 41' E. Bar. 30 1/10 Therm. 55°. A very large shark passed close to the vessel this afternoon – the only one we have seen for a length of time —

[20 OCT 1829]
Tuesday 20th
Fine warm day:– gentle breeze from N.W. with heavy swell. Lat. by obs. 28° 28' 34" S. Long. 19° E. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 62° at noon & at 4 P.M. 66° – soon after 4 O'clock, the sea rose rapidly without much wind or any apparent cause, and continued to run tremendously high for about 3 hours when it gradually subsided. The ship rolled & laboured dreadfully – every sea that struck her washing over her decks & her bulwarks being under water every time she rolled. A large filtering machine broke loose from it's fastenings and was hurled from side to side with immense violence – carrying away both the poop ladders – and everything that came in its way. One poor fellow narrowly escaped being crushed to atoms — his arm was broken and his face much cut. Our captain says that twice at nearly the same spot he has encountered a similarly heavy sea: it has been supposed to arise from some hidden shoal & has indeed just that appearance but none such has ever been discovered.

[2 OCT 1829]
Wednesday 21st
Fine clear warm day – sea smooth & tranquil Wind N.W. Lat. by obs. 39° 15' 25" S. Long. 22° 21' E. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 68° —

[22 OCT 1829]
Thursday 22nd October
Weather fine, clear and warm — steady breeze about 6 knots – from N.W. Lat. at noon ,by obs. 39° 23' 52" S. Long. 26° 2' W. Bar. 30° Therm. 68° — The sun set this evening with unusual brilliancy: I have heard much talk of the splendours of southern skies, but, with the exception of one night, I have yet witnessed nothing which is not surpassed by the gorgeousness of our spring and autumn evenings in England. It may be prejudice – it may be that my recollection turns with melancholy fondness to the green hills & fertile, happy vallies of my dear native land and that even the glories of the setting sun are shorn of part of their splendour when deprived of the combination of beauties presented by an English landscape — but to my eye, a sunset at sea is (comparatively I mean) a dreary scene —

[24 OCT 1829]
Saturday 24th
Forenoon clear & cloudy with strong breeze from N.W. Lat. by obs. at noon 39° 27' 37" S. Long. 32°33 ' E. Bar. 29 9½/10 Therm. 56°

[25 OCT 1829]
Sunday 25th October
Wind blew very strong during the night, and was accompanied with heavy rain and much lightning in the morning it moderated a little, but continued squally and cold throughout the day — Wind N.W. the ship rolls and labours terribly Lat. 40° 0 South Long. 36° 31' E. Bar. 29 3/10 Therm. 58°.

[26 OCT 1829]
Monday 26th
Wind blowing very hard all night and tremendous sea with heavy squalls of rain – About half past one the vessel shipped a sea which cleared away the greater part of her larboard bulwark and a great part of her starboard, overthrowing one of the guns and washing completely into the cuddy:– The soldiers berths were half filled with water, and some of it found it's way into the after hold & spoiled nine bags of flour & a cash of sugar. The weather has continued boisterous all day with frequent squalls but the sea is gradually subsiding. Lat. 39° 34' S. Long. 40° 59' E. Wind S.W. Bar. 29 6/10 and at 6 P.M. 30 ½/10 Therm. 54° —

[27 OCT 1829]
Tuesday 27
Dull cloudy weather towards afternoon wet and cold – light wind from S.W. Lat. 39° 41' " S. Long. 44° 36' E. Bar. 30 ½/10 Therm. 52° — A shoal of Black fish made their appearance close alongside the ship — their mode of swimming bears some resemblance to that of the porpoise but they are much larger and altogether different in shape & appearance

[28 OCT 1829]
Wednesday 28th
Weather fine, clear and warm during the day, but the evening has closed in cold & cloudy – steady breeze all day from N.W. & by W. Lat. by obs. 39° 53' 41" South Long. 49° 7' E. Bar. 30 Therm. 58°

[29 OCT 1829]
Thursday 29th
Fine clear day with wind at N.W. till about ½ past 2 P.M. when it blew strong from S.W. clear and cold Lat. 40 12 25 S. Long. 52 50 E. Bar. 29 ½/10 Therm. 58 caught one of the large dark birds called by the sailors the "Cape Petrel"[?] its plumage is entirely of a very dark slate colour the feet quite white with three toes – webbed – with a claw or nail at the extremity of each toe – the beak long – black & curved at the extremity – a beautiful white ring surrounding about 2/3rds of the eye – it measured 6 feet 2 in across the wings & 2' 6" from the tip of the tail to the point of the beak—

[30 OCT 1829]
Friday 30th October
Fine clear weather with fair breeze from S.W. Lat. by obs. 40° 37' 7" S. Long. 58° 22' 33" E. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 50° —

[1 NOV 1829]
Sunday 1st November
Fine weather – very cold – fresh breeze from S. & by W. – heavy sea during the early part of the day Lat. at noon (by obs.) 40 47 S. Long. 67° 17' E. Bar. 30° Therm. 52° —

[2 NOV 1829]
Monday 2nd
Fine clear, cold weather – little wind from S.W. Lat. by obs. 40° 27' 39" S. Long. 69° 34' 14" E. Bar. 30 1/10 Therm. 56° —

[3 NOV 1829]
Tuesday 3rd
Weather thick & foggy with small rain during the early part of the day – little or no wind about 3 P.M. a fine breeze from N.E. weather still dark & foggy – Lat. 40° 41' " S. Long. 73° 24' E. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 61° — a shoal of whales observed about ½ mile from the ship S.W. frisking their huge bodies about in the most awkward and ungainly gambol.

[4 NOV 1829]
Wednesday 4th
The weather in the morning thick and heavy with much rain – wind from N.W. = in the afternoon the weather cleared up with a fine breeze from S.W. – very cold Lat. by obs. 39° 59 S. Long. 77 39 E. Bar. 29 8/10 Therm. 58°

[5 NOV 1829]
Thursday 5th
Fine clear weather with little wind – almost calm Lat. by obs. 39 29 32 S. Long. 79° 51' E. Bar. 30° Ther. 58°

[6 NOV 1829]
Friday 6th
Weather continues fine clear and warm with very little wind from N by E inclining to calm Lat. by obs. 39° 43' S. Long. 62° 16 E. Bar. 30 1/10 – Therm. 60° Many albatrosses — & "Cape Birds" (as the sailors call them — g Giant Petrel?) follow the vessel but they are very shy and refuse to take the most tempting bait we can offer them. The number of Cape Pidgeons is diminished to ten or a dozen but some of them we hear will follow us to the coast of New Holland

[7 NOV 1829]
Saturday 7th November
Weather fine & clear – but much colder than yesterday — Wind N.E. fine steady breeze Lat. (by obs.) 40° 9' 7" S. Long. 85° 36' 27" East Bar. 29 2½/10 Therm. 57° —

[8 NOV 1829]
Sunday 8th
Weather wet, cloudy & miserable – heavy rain during the whole of the morning with strong wind from N.E. – about noon ceased raining & the wind shifted to N.W. Lat. by observing 40° 47' South Long. 90° 4' East Bar. 29 5½/10 Therm. 58° —

[9 NOV 1829]
Monday 9th
Weather fine and clear — but very cold – wind variable – about noon from W.S.W. Lat. by obs. 40° 25' 35" S. Long. 93° 56' E. Bar. 30 Therm. 56° –

[10 NOV 1829]
Tuesday 10th
Fine clear weather – and much warmer – light wind from N.W. Lat. by obs. at noon 40° 27' 34" S. Long. 91° 20' 50" E. Bar. 30 3/10 Therm. 60°. Just after breakfast this morning an immense shoal of black fish and porpoises appeared round the ship — we approached quite close and many of them passed under the vessel – The black fish are very large and have a very uncouth appearance they have a very large spot of white behind the dorsal fin – The porpoises had white snouts, bellies & tails – the back being black – the shoal was so numerous that the sea for a considerable distance round the ship was quite alive with them —

[11 NOV 1829]
Wednesday 11th
Weather fine clear and warm with light wind from N.N.E. – inclining to calm – Lat. at noon (by obs.) 40° 36' 46" S. Long. 99° 25'7" East Bar. 30 5/10 Therm. 60° A shoal of sperm whales appeared floating round the ship after noon; one of them approached very close and was considered to be more than 60 feet in length –

[12 NOV 1829]
Thursday 12th
Weather fine but in the morning cloudy – quite calm about 2 p.m. light wind from N.E. Lat. at noon [space] S. Long. [space] E. Bar. 30 5/10 Therm. 58° several whales seen floating at a short distance from the ship—

[13 NOV 1829]
Friday 13th November
Fine weather with light and variable winds chiefly E.N.E. air very cold – Lat. at noon (by obs.) 41° 40' S. Long. [space] E. Bar. 30 4/10 Therm. 57° numerous masses of seaweed have been observed for some days past

[14 NOV 1829]
Saturday 14
Weather fine with steady breeze from E.N.E. — Lat. at noon (by obs.) 42 46 40 S. Long. 104° 6' East Bar. 2/10 Therm. 55° —

[15 NOV 1829]
Sunday 15
During the early part of the morning much rain fell – with little wind:– about noon weather cleared a little and wind shifted to S.W. – atmosphere all day damp and cold. Lat. by obs. 42° 43' 44" S. Long. by reckoning 107° 29' E. Bar. 30 ½/10 Therm. 56° — saw several large whales close to the ship—

[16 NOV 1829]
Monday 16
Weather clear and fine but extremely cold – steady breeze from S.W. Lat. at noon (by obs.) 42° 5' 14" S. Long. 111° 6' 0" E. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 55° — Two new birds of a different description from any we have yet seen have made their appearance this afternoon They are about the size of a duck – body black back of the wings black & white speckled – in "make" they much resemble the Pintado or Cape Pidgeon –

[17 NOV 1829]
Tuesday 17th
The weather during the whole night was very squally wind blowing very hard from S.W. which has continued all day with very heavy squalls & rain Lat. at noon (by obs.) 41° 32' 25' S. Long. 119° 6' 15" E. Bar. 29 3½/10 Ther. 58° — more whales were seen close to the ship both last evening & this morning

[19 NOV 1829]
Thursday 19
Weather cold & squally wind S.W. Lat. at noon (by obs.) 41° 13' S. Long. 123° 45' E. Bar. 30 Therm. 56

[20 NOV 1829]
Friday 20
Weather milder but squalls with fine fresh breeze from W.N.W. Lat. at noon by obs. 41° 11' 22" S. Long. 127° 28' W. Bar. 29 9/10 Therm. 62. Another very large sperm whale came close alongside the vessel this morning & two more in the evening.

[23 NOV 1829]
Monday 23rd
Weather dull & gloomy with occasional squalls fine fresh breeze fro W. Lat. at noon (by obs.) 39° 53' 41" S. Long. 139° 16' 47" E. Bar. 29 8/10 Therm. 58

[24 NOV 1829]
Tuesday 24th
Weather variable & squally – wind W.S.W. Lat. at noon 39° 21' 14" S. Long. 143° 16' 50" E. Bar. 29 6/10 Ther. 58° — at 4 P.M. Cape Otway in sight bearing E. by N. —

[29 NOV 1829]
Sunday 29th
Weather fine & warm – with light baffling winds – almost calm:– at day break off Point Upright – a large ship to leeward about ½ a mile – I supposed to be the same we saw in Bass's Strait. At noon off Hat Hill & Red Point. The scenery along the coast is romantic & beautiful in the extreme – rising into wild & picturesque peaks clothed with wood – and interspersed with occasional patches of pasture the shore in parts is low & sandy:– many houses are dotted about and in front of one of them I could clearly distinguish a herd of cattle pasturing – a delightful object to the eye after a four months voyage – Bar. 30 1/10 – Ther. 72 –

[30 NOV 1829]
Monday 30th
weather thick & hazy with heavy rain – no wind in the forenoon the ship we saw yesterday bore up very near & signalled us but our people being unaccustomed to the use of signals could make nothing of them About 3 P.M. a heavy gale came on from N.E. bearing us fast away to the leeward again – Hat Hill once more in view