If you're staying on Hauptstrasse in Matten, that makes things really easy. At the corner by the Hotel Sonne, you'll see your first set of trail markers. Following the signs to Abendberg, you'll turn down that same sidestreet and head up into the wooded hillside behind the outdoor theater where the Tellspiel is performed. You'll go around the little bump known as the "Kleine Rugen," then begin to climb more steadily up the ridge behind it, catching occasional views of Interlaken and the lakes on one side, the high mountains on the other, through the trees.

Abendberg is a beautiful but delapidated old hotel that sits way up on the flanks of the Morgenberghorn. You used to be able to ring the bell and get soft drinks served to you at the outdoor tables, but hikers pass by there so infrequently now that that may no longer be possible. When you see the faded grandeur and the overgrown yard, you'll think the only way drinks were ever served on this terrace was in an episode of the "Twilight Zone."

From the front of the hotel, you get an excellent view of Lake Brienz and the high ridge to the south; if you go around back to the right, you can see all of Lake Thun. When (or if) you tire of this, continue on across the front of the building and off to the left, where you will find your next marker. Now you are looking for signs to Saxeten but might have to go in the direction of Wilderswil for a little while before you see one. This is by roadway, but it's all wide open, with views to the south and the east. Soon you'll be turning off to the right, and the road eventually turns back into a trail again. The trail peaks out in an unmarked field at 1320 meters. You'll know you've reached the highpoint when the view opens up to the southwest and you find yourself staring at the (usually) snow-capped peaks called Sulegg and Schwalmern. To their right is the suspended "V" of Renggli Pass--a good hike for another day.

It doesn't take long to make the descent from there into Saxeten. As you approach the village, keep an eye out for a yellow marker on the side of a barn on your left. This is where, when you leave Saxeten, you'll turn down into the valley of the Saxetbach and head home. The village itself is about as genuine a slice of Switzerland as you'll get--less trafficked than Gimmelwald because of its position at the end of a valley. There's only one hotel, the Alpenrose, and it's open every day but Monday for food and drinks.

If you're more intrigued by gaining some altitude instead of losing it, head on up the valley in the direction of Nessleren. In less than an hour, you'll reach a beautiful spot where three waterfalls meet. A postal bus runs back from Saxeten to Wilderswil three times a day, so at least you won't be stuck up there, if you spend too long. (But check the schedule before you wander off.)

Otherwise, go by Plan A and retrace your steps to the sign on the barn. From there the trail winds downwards, through rock outcroppings, woods and meadows, to meet the stream. The Saxetbach is a classic mountain stream, gorgelike in some places, with bridges, cascades and plenty of boulders big enough to have a picnic on.