Rotstock Hut

 

 

The Rotstockhütte
Duration - 5 1/2 hours

Classification - moderate

Transportation Costs - free

Head for the southern tip of Mürren and take the road leading up to the right behind the Schilthornbahn, signposted "Boganggen" (the code name for the Rotstock Hut). You follow the roadway only as far as the first sharp turn, where the trail, with clearly visible markers, goes straight. The climb is only slight through the woods but increases when you hit the open pasture lands and pass by some beautiful old barns. Do not take any turn-offs; just continue more or less straight on, following signs to Boganggen. After alternating woods and pastures, with views out over the Sefinen Valley to the Tschingelgrat and Büttlassen on your left, you eventually reach the village of Gimmelen (a few scattered barns and houses). At the next trail junction, bare left and cross the stream to the Restaurant Spielbodenalp.

It's a little bit early for refreshment, but keep in mind that Spielbodenalp is the last chance for anything, even water, until you get to the hut, so you might want to refill your water bottle at their trough, if nothing else. Behind the restaurant is a rock outcropping called "Bryndli," which is your next challenge. Take comfort in the fact that you're not going all the way to the top; it's only about thirty-five minutes of hard uphill before the trail swings left over a grassy part. (Longer, if you take your time to eat all the blueberries that grow on its slopes in the summer.) Around the bend and just past a non-threatening scree washout, you'll hit this broad expanse of gently-sloping pasture called the Wasenegg. This area is very similar to between Busengrat and Obersteinberg, except it's not nearly as steep, so you can pay attention to the scenery all around you. In about two hours and fifteen minutes' walking time from Mürren, you'll reach the Rotstock Hut, where food and drink are available. Sit at one of their outside tables and enjoy the view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, back in the direction you just came from.

When you're ready to leave, double back just as far as the other side of the stream, where a trail leads down to the right, signpost indicating that Stechelberg might just be down there somewhere. When the foliage changes, or "comes into existence" might be a more appropriate description, look for an unmarked trail branching down and to the right, along a small stream. The steep, gravelly but totally safe trail goes in and out of the woods, eventually passing another forgotten paradise called Ozen. The picture-perfect hut at Ozen faces eastward over a picture-perfect view and is surrounded by fields of thigh-high wildflowers on three sides. Don't bother leaving the trail to have a closer look at the hut--it's locked up, with a rather official sign on the door explaining that you can't stay overnight there, and there's no water anywhere. Thus ends the idyll.

Somewhere between where you branched right at the stream and Ozen is another trail going off on the righthand side. This alleged trail theorhetically leads to the Teufels Brücke (devil's bridge) and finally to the barn called "Uf Gstäg", which you may have glimpsed on the hillside over on the other side of the stream. The Devil's Bridge is actually a large boulder that fell from up above somehow and got wedged at the top of the stream gorge. Plantlife moved in and grew all over the top of it, disguising it somewhat and making it a little easier to cross, as natural bridges go. Good luck trying to find it, or even the trail that leads to it. Damned if I could. From hearsay and a 75 year-old guidebook I came across, I get the idea that the original trail went past Uf Gstäg and might have continued directly down to Kilchbalm, at the end of the valley, from there. Sure, go and have a look for traces of the old trail, but don't take it. Don from Gimmelwald trailblazed his way up from Kilchbalm to Uf Gstäg one time and implied this was a dangerous adventure that he was not eager to repeat.

From Ozen, the trail sweeps around to the right again, bringing you ever-closer views of the Büttlassen and the tiny, suspended Kilchbalm Glacier. Shortly after the trail curves left again, there is a waterfall on the left that makes a perfect natural shower, so you can cool yourself off on a hot day. In five more minutes you reach the main trail and continue east along the river, still following signs to Stechelberg. The Sefinen Lütschine is a wild and beautiful river. Further down, where you'll see a wash-out area and probably some snow on the other side, the snow left from avalanches sometimes bridges the whole river and remains there till late in the season. Even if you feel uncontrollably compelled to go down and get a closer look at this, don't.

At the next intersection, abandon your quest for Stechelberg and branch left and up, towards Gimmelwald. Pause half way, to enjoy the cool breeze coming up out of the mini-gorge of the Schiltbach. At the bend in Gimmelwald's main drag, you again go left and up, this time following a sign for Mürren. In five more minutes, you'll see the inviting outdoor tables of the Hotel Mittaghorn on your left, and, in another twenty-five, you'll be back in Mürren. Note: if you're beat, follow the lower leg of Gimmelwald's main street down to the cable car station and take the lazy man's way home.

rothike.gif (9046 bytes)