Now more about Switzerland's strange reputation. When people think of this small alpine nation, it's often of international banking, expensive watches and glamorous resorts. Many are initially drawn to it for the glitter,but it doesn't take that long to realize that that's almost its "dark" side; the pure culture of many beautiful, once-remote villages has been ruined by becoming too cosmopolitan too quickly. With something like annoyance, you'll notice that just about everyone in Interlaken speaks the alleged "international" language, English. Though your waiter may be Dutch, the bartender Swedish and your hotel receptionist American, they're all speaking English. Of course that makes life easy, but as you ease back into what seems like a normal weekend at your university or in your hometown, you may start to wonder whatever happened to traditional Switzerland: to Heidi, Peter and the goats. (Or, if you're in Mürren on a busy Saturday afternoon, to Otto and his flock o' bees.)

Thoughts like these pretty much qualify you for crossing the fine line between being a "tourist" and a "traveller." Those fairy tale locals are still out there, and you're going to go find them. The first step is not to fall prey to the "Old Home Week" Syndrome that hits some of us when we end up in a primarily English-speaking tourist town like Interlaken and run into old fraternity or sorority counterparts at Balmer's. The second step is to actually make the effort to find the real essence of the country and its people and not just do things that you could do anyplace in Europe, or, worse yet, back home.

In part, Switzerland is about banking, watches and sparkly resorts; unfortunately, you'll get enough of that stuff without even trying. But do yourself a favor and, instead of dwelling on it, head straight for the mountains. While you're still within yodelling distance of civilization, visit the hickest, down-home watering holes you can find. Enjoy the Swiss, and, whenever possible, get their perspective on the best of Switzerland. But don't stop there. Go as far as you can--on beyond the last resort. On beyond the last hick pub, out to where your only company will be the occasional marmot or ibex. There you'll find waterfalls, wildflowers, mountain vistas and glaciers in an atmosphere totally unlike what you're used to home in San Diego, Sydney, Tokyo or even what you'd see on the rest of your European vacation. That's what it's really all about.

Worried about prices? Don't be frightened by whatever it was your travel agent told you about Switzerland. First of all, there are still a lot of accommodations in the Berner Oberland in the SFr 15.00-40.00 price bracket. Let's say you're not looking for the Ritz Hotel, but you're also not looking for the most rustic of the rustic places to stay. You could have a clean, atmospheric private room in Gimmelwald for SFr 30.00 or in Mürren for SFr 35.00, both with breakfast included. For a similar price, in North America, it would probably be as clean, but also quite personality-free, situated along a highway, and breakfast might be at the next truck-stop. If you want atmosphere, you'd better have a major credit card.

Indeed, one of the most important selling points of Switzerland is that the scenery and the nature don't cost anything. If you're in a major European city, whether you're on a package tour or not, you've got to pay to get into all of the sights. You think seeing the Eiffel Tower, the Consiergerie and the Louvre all in one day doesn't start to add up? It's not just your wallet we're talking about here, either; it's your stress levels. Paris, just as an example, is a place where you can actually feel pressured by the number of things you have to see in a limited period of time. It's not the same in the mountains, when all you have to do is appreciate the view.

Admittedly, the transportation to and from the mountains can be expensive, and it's pointless to try to keep that a secret. But that's why a little guidebook like this one is such a good idea. It's information from somebody who's already weighed a lot of options and has selected for you the best scenery for the least amount of money. Most people arrive in Switzerland in the middle of a Eurail odyssey, only to find out that Eurail's validity is limited to the lake steamers and the federal railway line that runs along the lakes. Second in popularity is the InterRail Pass, which entitles the bearer to half fare on all federal railways, all lake steamers and most private railways, including those of the Berner Oberland. If you've arrived with neither, the best thing to do is go pick up a two-week "Regional Pass" for SFr 175.00. This allows five days of unlimited travel on all trains and boats and most postal busses, half fare the other ten days. Logically, it only offers a reduction, if you're bound for the Schilthorn or the Jungfraujoch (the area's two highest points), but it does also give you the bonus of a half-fare trip down to Zermatt, where the Matterhorn is, and that makes an excellent follow-up to a visit to the Berner Oberland. My second favorite pass is the two-week Half-price Card (SFr 85.00). Once again, this will not give half-price all the way to the J.J. or the Schilthorn, but it does cover Kleine Scheidegg, First and Scynige Platte, which are the three next-highest highpoints. When my parents visited the Berner Oberland, I decided on this for them because they weren't so wildly mobile as to merit a Regional Pass, but with trips to First (above Grindelwald), Interlaken, Ballenberg and Zürich, the pass had already paid for itself. (If you are staying in Switzerland for an extended period of time, the same kind of half-price deal is available for a year, at the amazingly affordable price of SFr 150.00.) If my tendency to push you towards at least two weeks in the Berner Oberland alone doesn't suit you, Swiss Passes covering the whole country are available in increments of 4 days to one month, and they even have a new Swiss Flexi Pass, offering three days in fifteen. Ask about your options at Interlaken West; I've been in there about a million times with a million stupid, bizarre and often complicated questions, and they've always been remarkably helpful. The fares quoted in this booklet are given to you straight-up, assuming you're holding none of the above.

Keep in mind that the exchange rate is always changing, and this can be checked either in the business section of most newspapers or at any bank in Switzerland. None of the banks in Switzerland charge commission, but the rates may be higher to compensate, and they certainly do vary from bank to bank. The train stations, believe it or not, tend to give the best rates, and Interlaken West will also exchange large foreign coins. Smaller places, like Mürren and Gimmelwald, have no exchange service in their train or cable car stations, so you must pay close attention to local banking hours. (There are no banks in Gimmelwald, but there are two in Mürren.)

For now, read on and make your own decisions about how affordable or desirable different options may be to you. I think you'll find that Switzerland is not just an "expensive" country that you have to stay overnight in on your way to Italy. Its reasonable prices and stunning natural beauty may prompt you to rearrange your itinerary for the maximum length stay possible!